What is a Heat Loss or Heat Gain Calculation?
Heat Loss is the amount of heating BTU's (size of heating unit) needed to replace the heat lost from your home per hour during the winter months at a given
How are heat gains and heat losses done?
Does the heat loss or heat gain change with outdoor temperature changes?
Why do a heat loss or heat gain calculation?
If the unit is undersized, it will run a lot more than needed and may never heat the home but using excess fuel. This is not as bad mechanically as cycling too often but it will result in higher fuel bills.
Proper sized equipment is less expensive than larger oversized equipment, so you start saving money right away. Any upgrades done to the home since it was built will reduce the heat loss, which is why we should do one anytime a heating or cooling appliance is replaced.
Is it common that my new heating or cooling appliance is over sized?
My contractor wants to install the same size appliance as the old one is that OK? It heated the house fine for many years.
More than 85% of the old equipment was oversized. It was the thing to do years ago when fuel was cheap. Most people have tightened up their homes by installing energy efficient windows and doors. Updating insulation values and adding weatherstripping to reduce heating costs and improve comfort. This will reduce heat loss and require a smaller unit. Larger than needed unit will cycle too often and cause higher fuel bills and less comfort as you will feel more temperature swings.
There are three ratings on gas and oil equipment. The first is input BTU's and the second is DOE Output or Gross Output and the last is net ratings. If the contractor would size from the old unit and read the input and size from this figure, he would be installing even a larger unit then the original was. Here is an example: 140,000 btu's on the old unit running at 70% efficiency would be an output of about 98,000 btu's. The new boiler rated at 140,000 and running at 83% efficiency is going to be 116,200 btu's. The new boiler would then be larger than the old and some fuel savings would be lost. Size it properly with a Heat Loss or Heat Gain calculation. Any new piece of equipment should save you money. Size it properly and save the most money.
My contractor wants to size the new boiler by measuring the radiation.
As stated above, the same is true for the hot water heating units. The baseboard was usually run on all exterior walls, which were more than needed when installed and definitely more then you need today. The plus side to excessive baseboard and properly sizing the boiler is the temperature of the water going through the baseboard could be a much lower temperature which requires less fuel and improved comfort. At one time heating systems were sized with a window cracked open at night because people thought it was healthier. Sizing off the existing radiation will oversize the boiler and cost more to install, operate and maintain.
The only time a contractor should measure the radiators and size a boiler with these factors would be a steam system or to calculate system water temperature when applying outdoor reset. Steam boilers are sized according to system square feet of steam and not so much on btu's or heat loss. We also do sizing for steam boilers. This requires different forms. (See pricing page)
You keep mentioning oversized equipment. Isn't it better to size the appliance larger?
What does oversizing an appliance hurt?
If I want to maximize savings should I just get multiple prices and make wise choices?
Unless it is an emergency installation the answer would be no. You must give this some thought and prepare for the appliance replacement. To just replace the appliance is fuelish! Plan a year or two out if you do not need the product right now. It would be a lot wiser to have the heat loss done and see which improvements can be a better choice for your dollars.
What this means is tighten up the home first. Let's get the heat loss lower than replace the heating appliance with a smaller on later. The smaller appliance will cost less, burn less fuel, and create more comfort. If you have 3" of attic insulation and add 6 more inches is that a good move? Usually yes. When we do the
What is a modulating condensing boiler?
There is a gallon of water produced for every 100,000 btu's of natural gas burned. This is a benefit of the condensing boiler. Operating at lower system water temperatures causes condensing to take place in the heat exchanger of the mod/con Boiler.
When fuel is burned, there is a chemistry change and heat is produced. To keep it simple mod/cons will remove more of the heat from the flue gases and cause the flue gases to hit dew point. They then remove latent heat which is about 9.6% of the vent temperature. The water runs out a drain line. This happens when the boiler water is about 132ºf or slightly less dependent on O2 or Co2 adjustment.
When the water temperature is above that in the boiler the efficiency will decrease as the boiler water temperature increases the efficiency will increase as the boiler water decreases. These mod/con efficiencies are normally in the 92% - 97% AFUE range. When the water temperature enters the boiler at 120ºf and leaving at 140ºf. These are the AFUE testing temperatures. When the entering water gets colder than 120ºf the efficiency could go into the 98% to 99% range. When the entering water temperature gets hotter the efficiency rating will go down maybe as far as 85% or 86%. The cooler these boilers operate the more efficient they are. Lower flue gas temperatures at lower water temperature, they have less pollutants in their flue gasses that make them more of a green product. These products will normally supply you with increased comfort. The best application for these products is large water volume systems like cast iron radiators and radiant floor heat. Copper tube baseboard and hydro-air systems are less desirable applications although they will still work well and maximize fuel savings.
With a properly sized appliance, and home upgrades, is there anything else I can do for fuel savings?
What about Air Conditioning?
Again, the key is to avoid short cycling of the air conditioner or heat pump. To start a compressor is expensive. The less times you start the better off your wallet is. As far as air conditioning goes you need to run long enough to dehumidify the home. If the unit is oversized, it will run too short of a cycle to properly dehumidify, and you end up with the cool clammy feeling. If you walk into a home and it feels good getting out of the heat of the day and after a short time you feel cool but still warm like a humid cool day the a/c is oversized. In a commercial building this may be normal in the morning as the a/c is sized for many people and a hot day. As the day gets hotter, and people start showing up to shop or for work everything equals out.